Groceria Merante emanates a love for Italian heritage, family, and community. The small, authentic Italian grocer on the corner of McKee Place and Bates Street is hard to miss. Filomena, one of two sisters who own the store today, has been in Pittsburgh all of her life and has spent countless hours tucked in the 900-square-foot shop only feet from the bustling streets of South Oakland, working to carry out her family’s dream of running the authentic Italian grocery store.
Windows wrapping around the storefront are plastered with bright signs, making promises of fresh cannolis, imported pasta and cheese, and even homemade sausage. Inside, surrounded by walls adorned with family photos and mementos of the shop’s history, I made my way through narrow aisles lined with fresh produce, pasta, and desserts to the back of the store where the deli sits to find Filomena Merante
Oakland is evolving and a longtime resident was surely the person who needed to teach me about Oakland’s history, their firsthand experiences living in the community, and their encounters with changes that are making their way down the streets of Oakland. For 42 years Filomena and her family have been along Bates Street and McKee Place serving the community. 42 years of building connections with residents and students alike. 42 years in the heart of Oakland. I knew if anyone would be able to tell me the ins and outs of life in Oakland, it would be Filomena.
To understand what’s really going on in Oakland right now, you have to know who Walnut Capital is. “The best in city living” as their motto, Walnut Capital flaunts being “one of Pittsburgh’s best known and fastest growing real estate development, residential, and commercial property management companies” on the homepage of their website.
Anyone who has walked along student inhabited streets like McKee Place or Louisa Street has likely seen Walnut Capital’s colorful advertisements of coating glass apartment doors or steaked into the ground on plastic signs. The company’s development is quickly expanding with guarantees of business in a college neighborhood, placing Oakland’s rich history and community in a potentially threatening spot.
South Oakland is placed in a tenuous position as the early stages of Walnut Capital’s “Oakland Crossings” project are in the planning process. Oakland Crossings is a 17-acre neighborhood plan including new housing units, stores, green spaces, parks, and even a pedestrian bridge.
To an unsuspecting eye, this looks like a strong plan that will enrich the community, but not all South Oakland residents are quick to agree. The Oakland Planning and Development Corporation strives for affordable rentals, inclusivity, collaboration between residents and is dedicated to maintaining a sense of community in the historical Oakland neighborhood. They explain their main concern with the Oakland Crossings Bill – it will be detrimental to current residents. The Oakland Crossings project will push families out of single-family homes, specifically on Coltart Street, Halket Street, and Halket Place, while damaging housing affordability along with diversity and inclusivity that make Oakland a unique and special place to live.
Filomena doesn’t have many concerns when it comes to Walnut Capital’s plans. There have yet to be any concrete decisions made in terms of development, so it’s not time to worry yet. ”So many things go into it, so many lines that need to meet,” Filomena explains before turning her frame from me to face the store’s front window, “but you saw what they did to our greenspace down there.” Her finger wags, pointing to what’s now a fenced-in construction area across the street from her store. She loved their green space, even voting for a couple of basketball courts and benches to be installed, but what was once a grassy area is now converted to a construction site. Filomena isn’t sure what will be built in its place, and this will likely remain a mystery for quite some time since construction takes so long in Oakland.
42 years ago, Oakland was home to a diverse group of residents, many were immigrants who came to Pittsburgh in search of a start in a neighborhood with promise. Today, Oakland is becoming more populated with university students, as schools like the University of Pittsburgh are growing and Oakland’s original residents are passing away. Shifts in resident demographics are sure to bring change to the neighborhood.
Many residents worry about how progressing changes will impact historical elements of Oakland that are grounded in homes, shops, and the tightly-knit community dynamic. Particularly, threats of new development. University growth brings assurance of success in newly constructed housing for students and young professionals, and the charm of Oakland is sure to pull in potential residents.
I reached out to a homeowner along Halket Street, whose home is at risk of demolition to make space for new construction, asking her for her feelings on Walnut Capital’s plan. There was hesitation behind her answer as if she had a lot of emotions on the topic but was fearful to speak about the controversial plans.
She explained how her home, a beautiful red brick house set a few feet off of the sidewalk with a small, green front yard and a large set of welcoming stairs leading up to the front door, had been in the family for generations. Her words came out in a strained voice, traced with a sound of sadness. It’s not change she’s afraid of; change can be good, actually very good for a place. She was most afraid of losing connection in the community. Community was a resounding element of what residents had to say about their time living in Oakland.
Mid-afternoon on a Monday in February, I found Filomena working behind the deli counter inside of Groceria Merante. She packaged some sort of meats and cheeses in a white parchment-like paper, the aroma of authentic Italian foods floated through the air. Her hands were clad in translucent, disposable gloves and a bright smile was worn on her face. Following Filomena, we weaved our way through the narrow aisle between the store’s shelves to the cash register while she spoke to me as if we had known each other our whole lives.
August of 1979, Groceria Merante opened the doors of a former tailor shop along Bates Street, welcoming community members into the new family-owned and run Italian store. The small shop was owned by Italo Merante, who immigrated to Pittsburgh in 1949 from Southern Italy, and his wife Philomena. The two raised seven children in Oakland, one of which being Filomena.
Growing up in Oakland, many of her neighbors were Italian immigrants. The Merante family is from Calabria, a region in Southern Italy, and was the only Calabrese family in Oakland at the time. With their neighbors from different regions of Italy, they learned new dialects, adjusting their own ways and tailoring to fit each other. “It was the merging of two regions,” Filomena explained. The bond neighbors built then still holds strong today. Even though elders have passed, their grandkids keep coming back to shop with the Merante family on the corner.
Filomena leaned down from her position standing next to me, resting her arms on a crate filled with peppers that sat in front of us. “We’ve been here so long, let’s see how many generations we’ve seen,” she said while starting to count generations on her fingers. Groceria Merante had catered for Lucy’s wedding, and now Lucy is having a baby. Her grandmother is turning eighty-six soon, meaning their family has been shopping with the Merantes for four generations. Filomena speaks about their customers and neighbors like they’re family, and in a way they are. Generations have grown up together, helping each other along the way.
“When my kids were growing up, when my sister’s kids were born, the whole neighborhood came together,” Filomena said, reminiscing on her memories from her time in Oakland. Her kids would come to work with her when they were young, far before they started working in the store themselves. If Filomena’s hands became too full, her neighbors were there to help out. “Oh, the baby’s crying? I’ll take him home. Oh, the baby needs fed? I’ll take care of it,” they said. The community was sure to come together and support one another.
Other days if two or three kids came into work with Filomena, she would send them outside to play. “Don’t bother me I’m busy,” Filomena would say to them. “You know it’s a safe neighborhood and everyone on the block knew them, even the kids,” she explained. The kids, meaning college students, became part of the Merante family too. Sometimes a student would come into the shop and let Filomena know they had seen one of her kids outside, “Oh you know he’s up at the corner? He didn’t cross, but he’s at the corner.” Everyone looked out for each other. Oakland was a great place to grow up, amongst people who care about one another, Filomena had fun raising her kids there.
Today, the Groceria’s clientele is much different than it was forty two years ago. Elders are passing on and students growing universities are bringing to Oakland are taking their places. While it saddens Filomena that longtime residents are no longer making their way into the store to shop, she is grateful students full of hope and charisma are able to take their places. “Pitt generations just keep teaching us and teaching us,” she explains. Students are bringing new energy to Oakland along with new ideas, which Groceria Merante takes in stride.
What lies ahead for Oakland is still unsure. Pittsburgh mayor, Ed Gainey, continues to delay planning for Oakland Crossings. Mark Belko of Pittsburgh Post-Gazette explains that Walnut Capital’s Oakland Crossings master plan has been in progress for over two years but has not been approved or completed yet. Mr. Gainey is quoted explaining his priority to “ensuring that Pittsburgh is affordable for all who desire to call our city home – especially longtime residents.” Mark Belko explains how Walnut Capital’s plan has been met with criticism from residents who name the plan as “top-down and led by special interests that don’t represent the real, honest people of [the neighborhood]” in a recent petition.
Filomena explained that not only have there been changes in who populates Oakland, but also in Oakland’s infrastructure. The UPMC Hospital along Boulevard of the Allies used to be home to an ice cream shop, Isaly’s. Isaly’s was one of the first businesses on Boulevard of the Allies, the building was constructed in 1929 and the ice cream shop stayed open until 1984. Even though Isaly’s is now only a memory to many Oakland residents, the beige art deco building still serves as a reminder of Oakland’s deep history.
Certain areas in Oakland are preserved to ensure history doesn’t completely die. One of Filomena’s favorite areas is Oakland Square, which is named a historical district. It is one of Oakland’s first developed neighborhoods and holds a large grassy area lined with trees that stretches down the block. Oakland Square is a unique sight to see, tucked away from the hustle and bustle of Forbes and Fifth Avenue making it a desirable place to live for elders and families.
In my short trip to the Groceria, I was lucky enough to speak with one of Groceria Merante’s longtime customers and Oakland resident, Dave. He walked into the shop radiating joy, smile creases making themselves present around the outer corners of his eyes as he walked in greeting each worker who was in the shop that day. It was easy to see the comfort the loyal customer had while in the store.
After making a quick round through the store grabbing a few essentials and chatting with workers behind the deli, Dave made his way to the front counter in search of a favor from Filomena.
“Hey I need a favor, can I have four dollars until Wednesday?” he asked, and without skipping a beat Filomena responded, “Absolutely,” not a trace of uncertainty in her voice. Anyone watching this scene unfold would soon understand how deeply residents of Oakland care for each other and Dave was sure to validate my observation. “They treat me so good here, like family, like family. And they never make you feel bad you know. If I’m starving, they feed me. It’s not what you know, it’s who you know,” he explained with a sense of certainty. Dave was confirmation of Filomena’s praises of Oakland and its people; Oakland residents had each other’s backs.
Filomena has watched Oakland change in many ways, particularly the University of Pittsburgh’s growth. She holds a positive mindset, which is evident in her cheery persona. Rather than worry about changes concerning university growth and new development, she enjoys them and the people they’ve brought to Oakland, and into her store.
She loves Oakland, “It’s number one because it’s so alive. It is a learning experience every day,” she explains. Many residents are fearful of Pitt taking over their beloved community, but not Filomena. Pitt is a major provider of employment, education, and revenue, while also bringing in diversity and life with its students. She says, “I think they’re a plus, an asset to the city.”
Another shopper shared similar appreciation for students in Oakland, explaining how students will walk around collecting litter from Oakland’s streets, “That is a miracle. It is so appreciated.”
In my time speaking with Oakland’s long-term residents, one thing was made clear: change is not something to be feared. Universities bring in students who give Oakland a new sense of life and creativity, and in many ways help enrich the community. If it’s done right, development can do the same. What is important at the end of the day is residents, old and new, coming together to maintain Oakland’s history and closely-knit community.
The other day Filomena’s toilet backed up. The plumber fixed it, but let her know that it was old. “Yeah, I could’ve told you that,” she said with a light laugh. Sooner or later, she’ll need to buy a new toilet whether she wants to or not. She can be sad about getting a new toilet, but sometimes change is inevitable, and sometimes that change is for the better. We can look at changes in Oakland from the same perspective.
Whether or not the Oakland Crossings plan comes to fruition, community members can fight to preserve Oakland’s character and unity through changes. Filomena left me with one question that sunny Monday afternoon, “You tell me, good or bad?” Only time will tell us if Walnut Capital’s plan follows through, and if it does time will eventually show us if it is good or bad. “There still is a lot of good out there,” Filomena explained, she has hope in Oakland and its residents to prevail through changes.